Cutting the seven (7) rail parts for a #6 Sn3 turnout
2-stock rails         41ft. 6in.    Sn3 7 + 5/8inches
2-point-wing rails  31ft 9in.    Sn3 6 + 3/16 inches
2-guard rails         6ft.            7/8 of an inch
1-frog point          19ft.          Sn3 2 +5/8 inches

Make yourself a drawing.  A six inch line crossed by a six inch line.
1/2 inch apart at each end. This is a #6 angle. (12cm X 12cm --- 1cm apart)

Now bend the two pt wing rails exactly 3/4 inch from one end.
Lay them over the #6 drawing to get them to match. Then bend the
frog point rail exactly in half.  Fit it to the #6 angle same as the wings.
Bend them and trial fit them untill they match the #6 angle.
Then slightly bend the ends of the guard rails 1/8 inch on each end.
Don't bend them TOO much. Just a little on each end.

 

 Now clamp the frog rail in a vice as below with the point sticking up above the jaws
File until the point is flat as per lower drawing. Take your time and get it smooth and flat.
The cut shaves the rail from top to bottom but leaves the outside web of the rail.
DO NOT FILE ALL THE WAY THROUGH. JUST 2/3 THROUGH THE HEAD

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> My third frog worked, but I just filed until a round hole
> appeared in the web. That's only about 2/3 of the way through
> the head, not 7/8 like you said.
> The only way I can get the rail into the vise is to take
> a piece of 0.025 phos-bro wire and hold the rail up on that,
> then gently lower it into the vise - it's a tricky operation.
> finally, when I did get one made, it had a burr on the bottom
> of the rail that I had to remove. Should it do that?
>

  That's the right way to do it.
 2/3 is about rght. I should have said "until a little hole appears in
the web".
I use a .015 wire to hold the frog as I lower it to the jaws ... then
clamp. You did it right.

  Yes remove the  burr that forms on the backside.
-Steve